A pilgrimage through Kraków, the Divine Mercy Sanctuary in Łagiewniki, Auschwitz-Birkenau, Częstochowa and the Black Madonna, and the shrine of St. Maximilian Kolbe at Niepokalanów.
Auschwitz demands silence. You walk through those gates and the words stop. Then you go to the cell where Maximilian Kolbe starved to death in place of another man, and somehow the silence becomes something else — not despair, but witness. Poland holds both the darkness and the light without flinching. Częstochowa, by contrast, is radiant.